RESCUE MISSION 5

 The Clarence Park Villas

This week's  hunt for a photograph takes us to the short section of Hatfield Road whose front windows are fortunate to overlook Clarence Park, although when they were first erected they overlooked The Fete Field which, after a few years became the recreation area of the new Park.

In fact, if this were strictly true there would be no need to carry out any searches for old photographs at all, for as the image below illustrates these houses are still standing and occupied – two floors and a basement level.  But we need to look at the history.

These are among the houses between Granville Road and Station Way along
Hatfield Road.

Until the 1860s the road, though narrow, was almost level, but had been widened and relaid to bring the roadway gradually up to bridge level for the new Midland Railway.  Shortly afterwards the field between the road and what is now Victoria Street was sold for development, and here begins the building of villa blocks between two new roads, Stanhope Road and Granville Road. Building later continued from Granville Road up towards the railway.  

Survey 1872: Hatfield Road from Camp Road (bottom right) to the new railway (top left).
The gradient is indicated by a planted nursery which later would provide the opportunity for
houses at basement level.

Survey 1897: Granville Road bisects Hatfield Road and most of the houses are completed.
The lower block has a driveway and would later become part of W O Peake.

Survey 1922:  The first purpose-built coat factory.

Survey 1937: The part-completed masterplan.

Survey 1962:  The works at its maximum development.
ALL ABOVE IMAGES COURTESY NATIONAL LIBRARY OF SCOTLAND

From the evidence of the upper development it is possible to assume  that the  designs of the lower section  also varied, maybe implying that the blocks would have been the work of more than one builder.

But we might never know, because this slightly earlier group of buildings, including houses round the corner into Granville Road, has been obliterated – twice – during the twentieth century.

The modern residential blocks from Stanhope Road (left), Granville Road (middle) and
Station Way (right).
COURTESY GOOGLE EARTH

First, a small coat factory arrived and moved into one of the blocks close to Granville Road.  This was the Peake family in 1911, and the location of their acquisition was considered to be beneficially close to the railway. During the next few years the company gradually acquired more of the existing houses and converted them into extensions of the expanding factory.  Clearly these were considered to be temporary expansions and a masterplan created a Neo-G Georgian style factory building to replace the former homes.

So, these original homes went under the bulldozer nearly a hundred years ago, though not all at the same time.  All of them.  So, of course, we now have no idea whether these were different from or similar to the homes still standing between Granville Road and what is now Station Way.

The end of W O Peake on this site came in the 1980s, and instead of retaining the impressive factory frontage the building was discarded and in its place the factory was replaced by residential blocks once more, and named Cotsmoor, after one of the Peake ranges of coats.

A photograph and  drawing of the 1922 factory.  It is the previous blocks of homes, shown on the
1897 survey which were previously where the factory (above) stood.

What, then, are we looking for?  Certainly not the current structures because we can photograph them any day of the week.  There are also a number of the completed Neo-georgian style factory, including rather gentle pen drawings.  What seem to be missing are the part–converted building range and the even earlier block of Victorian buildings between the former turnpike toll house – later a post office and grocery shop and more recently Chilli Raj  – and Granville Road.  An idea of the layout at the time of the 1897 map survey is the best we have.

Unless someone has found a street view on an early plate camera, perhaps taken on the opening event of Clarence Park in 1894.  Perhaps one just does not exist and those above Granville Road, with names such as The Cedars, Hazelmere and West View, is the best we can do.

COVER PICTURES 7

Community football

You will discover a football team on the front cover of St Albans' Own East End Volume 1. Not a team you will have heard of probably but it was very much part of the very early East End of St Albans.  Before the Park and before St Peter's Farm disappeared into quiet obscurity before becoming houses along Hatfield Road.

Before World War One Fleetville's first recreation ground was on Twelve Acres Field, in
Sutton Road opposite Nicholson's coat factory.  Here a team based around Albion Road lined
up for their pre-match picture.

We can assume that these were mainly residents in or near Stanhope Road and Granville Road, 
given their team name of Stanville FC.  It is likely they would be playing an early match in or near
Clarence Park.

Football as a player game as opposed to a spectator sport, grew up along the partly completed streets which made up those new developments around the new railway station: Granville Road, Stanhope Road, and very quickly Albion Road and Cavendish Road.  Young men-folk who had moved in were eager to become members of a patriotic team consisting of heads of household from their own road.  Or maybe be one nearby.  Later, public houses ran their own teams as the new Fleetville and Camp communities spread.  

The Adult Schools in overlooking the former prison had its own team, and no doubt The Crown Hotel did likewise.  Later, schools fielded their own teams of course, but it was those early street and pub teams which are still remembered through the postcard photos of the period, playing Saturday afternoon games with teams from other parts of the city, or local derby games from nearby.

A team from Marconi Instruments turned out one Saturday to play rivals from Ballito "down
the road".  Although the team members are not named, towel man/manager took credit for the
anticipated result!

Although this team and their mascot is not identified the location is intriguing.  The ground
is slightly sloped and seems to be not far from a newly built housing estate, which may in later
years creep down towards the players.

It was not always clear where the early matches were played, although there were many plots of land where houses were still to be built.  The park wasn't used for formal matches during the first few years of its life, although the district's first recreation ground was no doubt busy.  This was not the present ground, known also as Fleetville Park, but Twelve Acre Field between today's Campfield Road and the railway.  It was also reported that the field between Beaumont Avenue and Hatfield Road was made use of – undoubtedly without the owner's formal permission – as there had been complaints about the farmer not being able to use his own land for growing crops.

And don't think these games were informal knockabouts.  If we look in the sports columns of the Herts Advertisers of the time, you will find results under local, district and county leagues much as we still can today.  Team managers, team players, subs, referees and line runners would all have been residents of nearby streets; early teams from near the station where many were employees of the Midland Railway or the prison staff.  As the early factories set up and grew teams competed within the sports clubs of other firms across the town.  

There is a print from the Carlton Club, and this one is rare in having all
team members named. 1945/6.

We might guess where many of these 1910/11 players lived, for their team name was Glenfield FC; 
Glenferrie and Sandfield Road maybe?  It is this photograph which is reproduced on 
Volume 1 of St Albans' Own East End.

This photo taken outside the former Adult School between Stanhope and Granville roads,
proudly announces they are Benevolent Cup winners of the Mid-Herts League in
1924/5.  Towel man/manager was Charles Tuck whose house and business was in
Hatfield Road just beyond Sutton Road.

And one source of football interest wasn't a factory at all.  It was a shop, Bishop's Stores, whose owner also ran a boys' club, the Carlton Club which could field multiple youth teams.  Several images from the Carlton have come my way from former team members.  What is still missing, however, is firm information on the man behind this enterprise, who we assume was a Mr Bishop; yes?

His shop was at 113 Hatfield Road from before World War 2 until 1952.

Rescue Mission: the park chalet

 Places, whether they are sites or individual buildings, have their time and then they are gone; disappeared apparently forever and replaced with something else.

In Clarence Park we are fortunate in that these  structures all remain – the cricket pavilion, the entrance lodge; although the smaller cricket stand and the football stands, neither of the latter two were original 1894 structures.

This aerial photo was thought to have been taken c1946.  The cricket pavilion is bottom left, 
although the jumping sand pits appear not to be present.  The triangular grass patch in front of the football field featured the chalet and very close to it was a tree which most children of the
time will remember.

A further little building did not arrive until the 1920s, and yet is no longer part of the park and has not been so for probably fifty years, which may surprise some of us.  The tea chalet, which lay on a grass triangle between the main cricket pavilion and the football ground, was a popular feature of most family visits, whether there was an event taking place or whether children on their own or families had arrived for an afternoon out.

Today the triangle is more difficult to define; a low curved ornamental wall is in front
of where the chalet used to be, and the much-loved tree has surely been taken down for
those now on the triangle are far too young to be the same age as the Chalet.

It is uncertain why the facility closed and was demolished, nor exactly when.  The chalet was certainly there throughout my childhood and my frequent visits with friends or family; cricket matches, sports days, entertainment events and so on.  The original building is thought to be a small bungalow shape with a pitched roof, but at some point had a verandah added around the outside for shaded outside seating as well as including part of the entrance.

Did anyone take a photograph of the tea chalet?  I very much hope so – we've missed it ever since, and nothing else has successfully replaced the service it offered.  Wouldn't it be great if we could present the chalet in its setting on this page.

Meanwhile, one further image which surfaced shows the front verandah of the chalet.  See below:

Overlooking the part of the cricket ground overlooking the cricket pavilion and the tennis
courts, the photographer is seeing the scene though the front verandah of the refreshment
chalet.  
Courtesy Betty Ewens

COVER PICTURES 6

 The name's Nicholson – Alfred John Nicholson

The very first factories to open in the wider Fleetville were all the largest entities where the growing district swept up plenty of potential employees and helped create a relatively prosperous suburb, even though the remuneration rates were at times far from generous.

The Sutton Road factory when it had a front garden.

The frontage looks the same today, fifty years after closure, the benefit of protection under the
listing process.  Behind the frontage are now private residences.

The factory's front door at 3 Sutton Road still looks much the same,

Getting to work was once a challenge after heavy rains when the dip below the rail bridge 
created what was known as the "Sutton Lakes".

The third factory to arrive – from Manchester – was a raincoat factory, although its product range widened as the factory settled into its home at Sutton Road.  Negotiating this road was far from easy, with a very low railway over bridge and frequent flooding resulting from digging into the water table to enable sufficient vehicle height.  Although rail access to the factory was enabled less use was made of the tracks, or rather track, for it was only a single track railway.

Alfred's Manchester career began with the trading of woollen cloth and then the development of a lightweight waterproof fabric.  The move to St Albans came about through his clients' bespoke requirements; many of them living in London.  St Albans was close enough to the Capital and the cost of land further removed from the heart of London brought the unit costs within range.

Copies of a large number of original designs from the company have been retained
by St Albans Museums.
COURTESY ST ALBANS MUSEUMS

Early advertising in the brochure of St Albans' 1907 Pageant which was
printed next door at T E Smith's Fleet Printing Works.

Advertising in the national press in the brochures of the Festival of Britain
South Bank Exhibition in 1951.

Nicholson acquired sufficient land for the factory as well as additional potential sites alongside the railway which he intended to sell on to other employers and thus ensure the railway operated successfully – and to his benefit; although these developments were slow to mature, and were not as productive as he would have liked, resulting in Hedley Road today largely being a continuous row  of residencies today.

However, land Nicholson acquired in Salisbury Avenue bore greater fruit.

Residents today may have wondered about the naming of Hedley Road along which much Nicholson activity developed, including housing for early employees. William Hedley Kenelm Nicholson was AJ's only son.  The family lived in homes, successively in Clarence Road, Lemsford Road and Hall Place Gardens.  He became a parish councillor, a rural district councillor, and once St Albans City expanded to enclose Fleetville, the home of his factory, he ensured his factory was appropriately represented by being a representative on the new body.

Nicholson ensured residents could meet in his factory to discuss local issues, there being no other public room. Apart from political meetings for the Liberal cause, early parent pressure meetings included the urgent need for a school in the vicinity; until 1908 the only school in the new district was the Camp Elementary School.

St Albans' residents became familiar with the Nicholson factory in Sutton Road, but many are surprised by the existence of a second works in Swindon, and further works in Reading and Cape Town.  Through two wars and healthy competition Nicholson's traded successfully for seventy-two years, at times benefiting  from large quantity orders and government contracts.

Nicholson was not the only successful garment company succeeding from special contracts, for Chester Barrie purchased the Nicholson company and its works in the 1970s – just one of a succession of modern amalgamations and takeovers, the latest of which, recently, was Chester Barrie itself.

But the company of Alfred J Nicholson was no doubt proud that its founder helped to give birth to Fleetville, even though it was the firm on the other side of the road, T E Smith printing, which gave the district its name.  That is the reason for its inclusion on the front cover of St Albans' Own East End, Volume One.

Remembering the date

 May 8th 1945                                May 9th 1945

Victory in Europe Day                  Liberation Day

Ever since 1945 annual celebrations have taken place across Britain and the Channel Islands following the sudden relief felt by most people alive at the time.  Huge happiness for the future had arrived; great sorrow as they remembered family members were lost during the Second World War; and tired relief even though some of the difficult times still lay ahead.

In special years commemorations were held in 1950, 1970, then 1985. As the key years lay behind us, and more of us forgot the date until too late, we were beginning to realise for an increasing number of young people the year 1945 and the date 8th May meant little or nothing to them.  Not only had they not been born in 1945, an increasing number of their parents weren't around then either.  More families weren't in a position to talk about the events.  The question turned from being "what did you do in the war dad/grandad?" to "Did anyone in our family know anything about the war?" to "What was this 1945 thing?"

Probably not surprising; after all, no-one today remembers celebrations at the end of 19th century wars and battles, nor even the First World War.

But in St Albans the Herts Advertiser did their best.  All the printing was in black and white on very poor quality paper.  The skills required to produce quality photographs were just not there yet, as you will see in these re-prints below.  In 1945 everyone knew the name of the Mayor (it was Mr William Bird, whose house was in Beaumont  Avenue at the time).  Masses of uniformed (mainly) men standing guard outside the Town Hall with crowds of residents gathered behind.  The jubilation was guarded and restrained.

May 8th 1945 in Market Square; Mayor William Bird gave a formal speech.
COURTESY THE HERTS ADVERTISER

But the fun came in the suburbs with a certain amount of dressing up and instant drama along the streets; everyone seemed to let down their hair.

COURTESY THE HERTS ADVERTISER

In parts of our district families hailing from Guernsey had been living here, having left their island (and from Jersey) just days before the enemy began its occupation of the islands.  So when 8th May arrived and the surrender signed off it was not until the following day, the 9th, that "our dear Channel Islands" could be freed.  So in Britain the date was known as Victory in Europe Day (VE), because that is what it was – though there was a lot more still to do – and tomorrow the Channel Islands will be commemorating Liberation Day, because that is what it was for the islanders.

In Liberation Square, St Helier, Jersey they selected something altogether more permanent in Philip
Jackson's highly symbolic sculpture.  Islanders are daily reminded of their return to freedom.

Islanders in Guernsey carry their reminder of freedom daily in their pockets.

So, friends and families, wherever we are, we'll hopefully have conversations, not just today and tomorrow, but every 8th and 9th May.

Cover Pictures 5

The former T E Smith printing works, Hatfield Road

 We could hardly publish a book all about the city's east end and its best known local area, Fleetville, and not include a photograph of the printing works one mile out of the town's centre.  After all, the building was known as the Fleet Works, and gave its name to the new development around it.  The Fleet refers to the river (sadly below ground and incorporated into an ancient drainage network) and the well known printers' street close to where the owner's home printing factory was based.  The gentleman in question was Thomas E Smith, who brought a significantly larger works to St Albans as colour printing became popular.  Space-hungry colour print works were often built on the outskirts of towns where land costs are lower.

We should add, Thomas Smith's works was not the first to open here; two years earlier another Smith, Orford Smith, began his fine quality  colour works nearby in what was then known as The Camp Fields. Later, the Salvation Army took over the site and it became Campfield Press – but that is another story.  

The T E Smith Colour Printing Agency as shown in the company's own advertising pages inserted into
a publication it had printed in 1907.  The inset illustrated the firm's headquarter building near Fleet
Street where, at the time, most of the country's national newspapers were published and
printed.

The road outside the factory c1914.  Many of the people shown are likely to have been
leaving their shift, walking and cycling along a Hatfield Road devoid of motor traffic.

The red brick factory following the closure of Ballito hosiery mill in the 1960s

All of the currently known and publicly available photographs of the Hatfield Road building were taken by, or for, Smith's themselves and  appeared in a large brochure/programme produced in 1907 for the 1907 Pageant at Verulamium – more than two decades before it became a public park.  Smith's was commissioned to undertake the publication, and naturally it wished to undertake a little publicity for itself.

Thomas Smith, however, was only able to acquire the land because its owners, a partnership between Earl Verulam and the Trustees of St Albans School, required funds to expand the school estate at and around the Gateway.  This expansion was the flint block we see today  adjacent to the Gateway itself.  The Fleet Ville grew on the two arable fields on which the factory was built on the south side and a further field for shops, homes and an institute on the north side of Hatfield Road.

Early photographs of a selection of printing processes within the building c1907. Here a 
rotary press is surrounded by drums of lined up nearby for the work to be done.

One of the machine rooms in the huge compartmented space, designed to limit the damaging
effect of fire.  The company operated its own fire brigade and also gave assistance to the 
neighbourhood of Fleetville.

The backbone of any printer was what was known as jobbing work – a steady stream of small scale
work requiring basic machinery or tools for the production of small quantities of leaflets, forms,
letterheads and so on.

One of the finishing departments was the bindery where multi-page documents are formed into
pamphlets or books.

As with so many commercial enterprises, Smith's was caught up in the manpower and materials issues of the First World War, and although it managed to keep going until 1916 its skilled staff were called to the front, work for the firm was seriously depleted, and the government had a serious requirement for wartime factory space.  The expansive factory was turned over to secret submarine optical research work.

At the end of the war the now government-owned property permitted  Howard Grubb to turn its attention to telescope design and manufacture, which it did until 1925 when it was absorbed into the larger enterprise of Parsons in Newcastle.

Almost immediately two American brothers who had been looking to expand the manufacture of ladies' silk stockings into the UK in order to bypass the heavy import taxes on a number of luxury goods, spied the newly empty building in Fleetville.  The former print and then optical works was acquired and converted into the Ballington Hosiery Mill.  Ballington was the name of the original Tennessee cotton mills, and the name was adjusted to become the brand for the products manufactured in Fleetville: Ballito.  It continued in Peace, War and Peace again until forcibly closed by its new owner, Courtaulds, in 1965.  Although as Ballito new buildings were added post World War Two, three successful businesses thrived in the original 1997 buildings for nearly seventy years before the site was cleared for the St Albans Co-operative Society's centralised supermarket in their own building.

Hundreds of employees were engaged in printing, engineering and hosiery during those times, and brought prosperity to both the city and especially its east end.

Album Mysteries

 It would seem to be an appropriate opportunity to bolt on one or more other searches while we may be trying to find that elusive photograph described in the monthly series titled Rescue Mission.  This is intended to identify locations in St Albans which are recalled by memory, event or by association, but for which there appears to  remain no known images.  As you may have read recently the three locations already highlighted have been the former Sear & Carter Nursery at Smallford (now Notcutts), the Former Co-operative supermarket in Fleetville (now replaced by Morrison's) and the former James Halsey Sawmills (now replaced by commercial buildings along Acrewood Way between Oaklands and Smallford).

While we are carrying out "shoebox searches" containing our own, our parents' or our grandparents' photographs, we could be carrying out other searches at the same time – which might be exciting!  Particularly, looking for those mystery images that have seemingly always formed part of our family collections but where the people or places shown are unknown to us but might have meant something to our relatives from an earlier generation or two. Here are three examples, only the first of which I have solved – solved because I am related to the young people featured above.  It was only relatively recently that I had taken photographs on top of an old building and was able to compare the graffiti scarred into the walls in c1930 with what I can see today; although today's graffiti is far more busy on the picture I had taken in 2012.   Yes, I had been, as my aunts had been, at the top of the Clock Tower in St Albans.

I found the second image far more challenging.  I guessed this photo had been taken in the early stages of World War Two, which would connect with the beginnings of my parents' photo album when they were first married in 1939.  Was this a unit undergoing military training?   My parents are likely to have known at least one of these men, but what about the building?  Was it a former school taken over for the duration of the war?  Perhaps it was a temporary barracks, or a police headquarters – note the typical light fitting above the doorway.  I suspect we would need to have retained a memory of the building even if that building has since been replaced.  It might have assisted if details had been written on the reverse – how many times have we mentioned that? – but no helpful information was found.  I suppose it could be anywhere and probably nowhere near St Albans; but you never know.

It had taken me decades to work out the location of the final image above, which appear to be a row of timber buildings with veranda ends.  It was only after I had worked with a another relative that I began to understand the career and marriage of an uncle whose engineering apprenticeship had been in central London, followed by a long-term contract for the Army at a Royal Air Force base – and  marriage to a WRAF soon after moving to the place of work (above) in Uxbridge.  A pencil marking on the reverse of the image indicated Bungalow number 141 (MQ), St Andrews Gate, RAF Uxbridge.  This is where he and his new wife were entitled to be domiciled at RAF Uxbridge from 1943.  As a civilian attachment they were entitled to accommodation in these Married Quarters, and I had been familiar with this location since a very young child but had no idea in the world where that was.

So three mystery photos, two of which I have researched some identification, and only one, the final picture) am I in a position to assist someone else, if needed, and that someone else could be you!