The Quadrant Local Shops

 

The coloured base map shows the area covered by The Quadrant (in red).  The black overlay is the
former site of Marshalswick Farm (which had previously been known as Wheeler's Farm).
Marshalswick Lane is the curved road lower left; Sherwood Avenue (previously called
Woodlands Avenue) branches almost northwards from Marshalswick Lane.
COURTESY OPEN STREET MAP CONTRIBUTORS and NATIONAL LIBRARY OF SCOTLAND

A quiet period at The Quadrant recently.  Marshalswick Lane curves across the bottom of the image.
COURTESY GOOGLE EARTH

A mid 1930s proposed plan of part of the New Marshalswick estate. The red circled area is labelled
"School site - at present Marshalswick Farm". This would later become the site of The Quadrant
instead.
COURTESY ST ALBANS MUSEUMS

We can forget a cluster of four or five retail units round the corner or along the street, such as we've explored recently.  This week we've come to explore the daddy of them all, standing back proudly behind its own bend along what was known as the ring road – Marshalswick Lane – with its own pair of roundabouts.  This is The Quadrant, sporting its own definitive Article built into the title.  While intended to serve both old and new Marshalswick, today it is more widely signposted as a destination.  If the definition of Local Shops is a location you could walk to, in the case of The Quadrant it rather depends on how fit you are. While the centre's car parks (plural) have always been busy their main function today appear to serve more distant visitors.  As for bus services, if you live halfway along Charmouth Road, or anywhere else in Old Marshalswick for that matter, you are effectively as far from local shops as the city centre.

A view of the centre block at the front of The Quadrant in 1959.  There are as yet unoccupied
premises and an almost empty car park.
COURTESY CHRIS CARR

The developer placed an advertisement for potential tenants in the Herts Advertiser. Twenty-one of
31 shops in phase one were currently let.
COURTESY HERTS ADVERTISER

The Quadrant's gestation goes back to the mid-thirties when Marshalswick Farm was sold for housing following the eventual sale of Marshalswick House. T F Nash, a north London developer, published its initial plan for "the estate" meaning new Marshalswick, for old Marshalswick was already in build.  The road now known as Sherwood Avenue was to be a shopping street with units on both sides, and a cinema – possibly a multi-purpose hall.

But the style of the 1930s, replicated in dozens of north London residential estates alongside or spanning major roads, did not suit post-war retail layouts.  Instead a large swathe of the new estate was classified as a high density zone for flats, schools, shops and other services.  The former farm was still standing together with its barns, ponds and wooded surroundings, and in 1957 work began on clearing the site and creating phase one of the shops.

In a blog of this size it is not possible to plot the many changes which have taken place in the past sixty years, but a second phase was added from the mid-sixties, with an additional five shop units to lengthen both wings, although a sixth unit was created on the south  side by the expedient of dividing one full unit into two halves (the first iteration of Marshalswick Carpet Company, and Terry Watts, hairdresser).

The early days of the north wing, part of which was developed later, included a Chinese food outlet, Neighbourette laundrette, Wright's grocery, Kristian ladies' hairdresser, Norbury greengrocer, and the double-fronted corner shop was held by Victoria Wine.

Phase two of the southern wing showing a double unit occupied by Barclays Bank, which went
on to be joined by Lloyds Bank in the same block. Both have now left.
COURTESY BARCLAYS ARCHIVE

Phase one and phase two blocks on the south side taken c2012.  Opposite are the branch library,
community centre, M&S Food Hall (formerly The Baton PH) and Sainsbury's Local.

The south wing's double fronted unit launched with Giffen's Electrical (although this was soon followed by Darby's Radio and then Sherriff's Garden Shop).  The rest of the lineup included Micheline de Paris ladies' hairdresser, Drummonds toys and sports, Martin's newsagent and Post Office, Allen's hardware, Marshalswick Motors, Marshalswick Carpets, and Terry Watts men's hairdresser.  This side also features branches of Barclays and Lloyds banks, and the estate office of T F Nash, later McGlashan & Co.

The long sweep of the front road began with a double unit in the centre: Marshalswick Car Sales, although this seemed to be a temporary arrangement as the company moved to a separate building fronting Marshalswick Lane where today's Sainsbury's Local and petrol forecourt is.  Bishops Stores nestled into the double unit by c1965.

A full page advertisement placed in the Herts Advertiser by the DIY shop
Edward Carter, who also had a shop in the parade at Beech Road.
COURTESY HERTS ADVERTISER

From left to right the early shops included R J Blindell, shoes; Josephine, newsagent; C J Martin, chemist; Edward Carter, hardware (today we would called it DIY); The Woolshop; Notts bakers; E Butler, butcher; Pearks Dairies; Gerrard, fruiters; Kingston butchers; E Wright, watch maker and repairer; Longman's baby shop; Alicia, drapers; Andrews, outfitters; Eastman, dry cleaners; Marshalswick Furnishing (although a cycle shop existed here for a short time).

The frontage view of The Quadrant seen from Marshalswick Lane.
COURTESY GOOGLE STREET VIEW

That's quite a range for everyday as well as more specialist  requirements. But how have our apparent needs of yesteryear become our apparent needs for today?  As in many places the hardware/ironmongery shops have disappeared to more distant warehouses on retail parks.  Our groceries have become more diverse – the size of Budgens is identical to earlier Bishops, although next door's McColls may, by the time you read this, have morphed into a Morrison's Daily, but Sainsbury, which once wanted to make a sizeable appearance at Jersey Farm, now occupies a prominent location close to another even more prominent position at M&S Food – for readers who have moved away from the district in recent years the Baton PH was located here.

If the definition of Local Shops is a location you could walk to, in the case of The Quadrant it rather depends on how fit you are. While the centre's car parks (plural) have always been busy the main function today appear to serve more distant visitors.  As for bus services, if you live halfway along Charmouth Road, or anywhere else in Old Marshalswick for that matter, you are effectively as far from local shops as the city centre.

We now appear to crave more food on the go, and although Fish and Chips had made an appearance from the earliest days, Subway and Greggs have been added to the list.  Not to mention a Chinese,  Italian, kebab, KFC and Molen's cafe.

Not surprisingly I suppose, the banks, of which there were two, are now absent.  On the other hand, no-one felt the need for an estate agent, but now there are four.  There are also three charity shops and a kitchen design service for the five thousand homes which are apparently looking more old fashioned since the 1960s.  

Whatever the mix there is bound to be plenty of variety and competition among over forty shops, much as there has been since this retail adventure launched in 1959, gradually replacing the ad-hoc trade provided by a small number of mobile shops and delivery vans.

Jersey Farm Local Shops

 You will have noticed no reference yet to the largest centre of local shops – The Quadrant.  We will, naturally, get round to it, but it does seem right to reference The Quadrant during the planning period for its much smaller neighbourhood and rival at Jersey Farm.

Jersey Farm homestead closed up and ready for redevelopment in  the 1970s, but consumed
by fire before enjoying its new lease of life as a community facility.
COURTESY TREVOR PARSONS

Jersey Farm residential area had barely been conceived when its larger neighbour was already maturely complete with its retail offering open to the world.  In fact, much of the 1970s seemed to be occupied by arguments about whether or not there should be any houses at all at Jersey Farm; the original plans for the estate (or mini-town as it was referred to) included a northern bypass and two schools, but all were ditched as was a proportion of the housing stock, on the pretext of – well, that's another story!

The range of shops and the Blackberry Jack PH at and around The Harvesters (not, as shown, Harvest Court).  Aim for St Brelade's Place to park the car.
COURTESY OPEN STREET MAP CONTRIBUTORS

The site for services and shops was to be around an upgraded farm house at newly named St Brelade's Place, a reference to the island and its cattle breed raised and maintained at the former farm.  However, a serious fire at the farm house scuppered the plan before it was even begun.  And so the services available to residents today were all new-build.  Today, if you drive along Sandringham Crescent, the main spine road, two other names will stand out before you ever see the word St Brelade's Place, which is a short connecting street round the back of the shops.  The first is the side road joining the main spine, which was given the name Harvesters; the second is the community and family pub on the corner, named Blackberry Jack, referencing a local legend.  The Blackberry Jack is the only public house which is part of a local shopping hub in this series.  Quite an accolade!

The Blackberry Jack community public house, operating under the "Sizzling" brand.

Another boost is the provision of doctor, dentist, pharmacy and post office services.  The local grocery is in the form of a Tesco Express – and without a grocery anchor any local shopping parade would become unstable.  It is supported by three other eating options; Chinese, Indian and a traditional fish 'n' chips.  And to complete a useful collection St Albans Cycles has a bicycle shop, which is brilliant now that we are all being encouraged to revert to two wheels and leave the car at home (or sell it).

Residents of the wider district or Jersey Farm itself will know there is more to the retail back story than is described above. With the early developments already progressing in the mid 1970s, the intended "supermarket" provider was slated to be Key Markets.  Which is when the backlash from a few of the Quadrant traders began.  Key's intention was to service both JF and Marshalswick with one large store – hence the term supermarket we suppose.  In time this brought Sainsbury into the fray, which proposed a larger footprint than Key had proposed or the developer was offering.  The City Council, as the planning authority, urged Sainsbury not to push so hard as there would be no increase in the number of homes at JF.  The term "mini-town" had had its day, St Brelade's Place would be an appropriately sized hub of local shops, expecting common sense to prevail.  As it still does.

Russet Drive Local Shops

 

Hill End Lane at the foot of the picture, with Russet Drive extending northwards between the two
blocks.
COURTESY GOOGLE STREET VIEW

Not far from Cell Barnes Local Shops is a very small group of shops alongside Hill End Lane in Russet Drive.  Although this road appears short in length, walk or take a car between the shops Russet Drive turns left and winds its way northwards to join a roundabout, passing a number of short culs de sac, all named after varieties of apple.  One of the features of the former Hill End Hospital upon which the new residential area of Highfield was built were extensive apple orchards.  It is Russet Drive, opened c2000, which gave the little group of shops and other facilities their name.

A bunch of Russet apples.

The retail units are not arranged in a strict line, but informally around a small car park.

The largest unit is a Spar general opening out onto four sides, and has by far the largest footfall.

Top: Spar General store. Second: front group of shops. Third; Community Surgery.  Bottom; YMCA building behind the car park.
COURTESY GOOGLE STREET VIEW

Backing up this prime shop are J Hoots, Pharmacy and a small surgery.

Alphamarque mobility specialists, Saints Barbers and Sushi 4U complete the series of units, although there remains one empty shop c2020. We should not, however, omit a useful free withdrawal bank machine.

Nearby are the YMCA Community Gym, Fusion Performing Arts and Tumble Tots.

Hill End Lane on the left.  The two red retail blocks with Russet Drive between.

                                                                                               COURTESY OPEN STREET MAP CONTRIBUTORS

But, of course, the extensive Highfield Park and its Millennium Maze, meadows, woodlands and Village Green are on the doorstep.

Topics specialising on the former Hill End and Cell Barnes hospitals can be found in https://www.stalbansowneastend.org.uk and regular events are announced in the Highfield Park Trust website https://www.highfieldparktrust.co.uk

A section of Highfield Park.
COURTESY HIGHFIELD PARK TRUST

There is much variety to be found and not just in the immediate vicinity of Highfield; where Drakes Drive meets Ashley Road, Hill End Lane, Highfield Lane and Tyttenhanger Green Lane all benefit from the local shops.  Even the eastern end of Camp Road, which once thrived with small shops, now require householders to walk to Russet Drive as an alternative to Cell Barnes Lane.

Central Drive shops

Central Drive crosses the picture from left to right, with Hazelwood Drive and Woodland Drive intersecting to the left and right respectively.  Central Drive shops are in the centre, to the left of the six blocks of Irene Stebbings House.  Until the shops appeared the land was an informal green space where children played.
COURTESY GOOGLE EARTH

Corner shops in the suburbs have always remained popular despite the near universality of supermarkets.  In the early postwar years their owners fought hard against the branded stores, as of course did the small independent hardware shops and butchers in the side streets and residential corners.  Somehow many of them survived with new owners willing to commit to even greater hours and seven day trading.

One of many corner shops in Fleetville, this one being Bransons at the junction of Harlesden and Burnham roads.
COURTESY THE GORDON JAMES COLLECTION

St Albans City Council also committed to serving its tenants on the many residential estates which were considered to be remote from essential shopping locations; blocks of three, four or five lock-up shops with separate flats or maisonettes above, appeared in locations such as St Stephens Avenue, Bricket Wood, Cell Barnes Lane and Central Drive.  These developments came about in the late 50s and early 60s, and were intended to bring opportunities for essential purchases without leaving home for the city centre.  We must remember that car ownership was still relatively low, refrigerators and freezers were nowhere near universal and modest kitchen dimensions often precluded space for generous storage.

The Newgates Cottages.  The left house included a general store during the 1950s and 1960s.

St Albans Co-operative Society invested in several mobile shops to take its products to where
people lived.
COURTESY GORDON JAMES COLLECTION

The nineteen thirties and early post war estates rarely came neatly packaged with extra facilities; just houses.  The Beaumonts estate, begun in 1930, required tenants and owners to walk either to Fleetville or to Wynchlands Parade, although a general store had opened in one of the Newgates Cottages in Sandpit Lane, at one time run by the Sanders and Dench families.  Various vans and old coaches were pressed into service as travelling shops, and the Co-operative Society purchased specially designed mobile shop vehicles which pulled off the road for a couple of hours weekly.  A fish van arrived on occasions.  While we could be served today by the home delivery vehicles of all of the major supermarkets, this is not new; we  were well served by bakers, grocers and milk. Oh, and regular jingly visits were made by an ice cream van. However, there is no doubt the Council's proposal to make use of land in Central Drive to bring retail closer to people was a huge attraction.

Recent images of Central Drive shops.  Unfortunately, no images could be found of the shops
in their early days.

Five such shops opened in 1960, which, on the whole, could be classed as useful; the Council determined the classes of retail which could be traded.  Unfortunately I could not locate a photo of the Central Drive shops early in their life.

Number 13: Greengrocer, first Bonella and then Watson;

Number 15: Grocery, first Home & Colonial, then Hilkene and S&V Stores;

Number 17: Newsagent & confectionery, Mr Bates;

Number 19: Wools, (Gayes), changing to a ladies' hairdresser (Kay)

Number 21: Ironmongery, first Mr S Wrightson, and later by Mr Barrington.

The ironmongery later changed trade; Mr J Patience took over the lease and traded successfully as a butcher.  His customers often came from further afield than the local estate – and of course the name had been well known for butchery on the east side of St Albans since Fleetville itself began.

Returning to Central Drive in recent years I was keen to discover whether the essential nature of the local shops had survived.  Using a rough-and-ready checklist on potential purchases, I intended to seek out some carrots, a tin of peas and loaf of bread, a newspaper and chocolate bar, and a shelf bracket and spare battery.  None of these is available here today.  Instead, we have a cafe, a photographic studio, an off-licence, and no fewer than two hair dresser/stylists.  There used to be a quiet conversational buzz in front of the units; the greengrocer also sold postage stamps; in the period before mobile phones and before most homes had landline phones a public phone kiosk was located to the right of the fifth shop.  But you can at least  still post a letter on the pavement pillar box.

Today, of course, The Quadrant is not far distant and does offer a significantly wider choice.  And it is still possible to walk to Wynchlands Parade or Fleetville, the latter containing a very large supermarket!